Prague in a (Sleeper) Train Ride
A Whirlwind Winter Escape
There’s something undeniably magical about arriving in a city by night train. One moment, you’re tucking yourself in somewhere in Belgium, the rhythmic clatter of the rails lulling you to sleep, and the next—Prague. A city of spires, snow, and stories, waking up to its winter embrace felt like stepping into a perfectly chilled fairytale.
Rolling into Prague with European Sleeper
Readers of the blog know that I’m a fan of train travel. So, when the opportunity arose to add another train journey, I didn’t hesitate.
Our journey began the day before my birthday (February) in Antwerp, where we boarded the European Sleeper to Prague. If you haven’t heard of it yet, European Sleeper is an independent Dutch-Belgian company on a mission to revive the romance (and practicality) of overnight train travel across Europe.
Launched in 2023, their first route connects Brussels, Antwerp, Rotterdam, Amsterdam, and Berlin. In December 2023, they extended it all the way to Dresden and Prague, making our trip possible without the usual airport hassle. The company plans to expand further in the coming years, bringing more night train options to a continent rediscovering the joys of slow, sustainable travel. Venice is opening soon as a direct line, and Barcelona should be ready by the end of the year.
For us, it was the perfect way to start our trip. Instead of dealing with airport security lines, baggage restrictions, and the general indignity of budget airline travel, we boarded the train, settled into our cozy compartment, and let the rhythmic motion of the rails carry us eastward. It was travel as it should be—effortless, comfortable, and just a little bit nostalgic.
On the morning of my birthday, we stepped onto Prague’s streets, greeted not by the icy chill we had expected but by glorious winter sunshine. The city, bathed in golden light, felt almost surreal. We made our way to Leon D’Oro, a charming hotel ideally positioned for city exploration. If location were currency, this place was sitting on a gold mine.
Prague on Foot, on Wheels, and Water
With only about 40 hours to explore, we set out on foot because Prague demands to be walked. The Old Town Square greeted us with its timeless beauty, the Astronomical Clock put on its quirky little show (is that is?), and Kafka’s presence lingered at every corner (both in statue form and in that existential way).
With only about 40 hours to explore, we set out on foot because Prague demands to be walked. The Old Town Square greeted us with its timeless beauty, the Astronomical Clock put on its quirky little show (is that is?), and Kafka’s presence lingered at every corner (both in statue form and in that existential way).
Crossing the Charles Bridge, we soaked in its hauntingly beautiful statues and riverside views. You can’t bike over it (and we wouldn’t want to—some places deserve a slower pace). Instead, when we took a bike tour with Baha Bikes the next day —by then, the city had transformed into a winter wonderland, dusted in fresh snow—we used other bridges to cycle through the city.
A surprising thing about Prague? Unlike many European capitals, bikes are rare. Apart from the occasional bike messenger or a group of tourists like us, public transport is king here—efficient, cheap, and so well-organized that locals don’t seem to need two wheels.
After the bike tour, we visited the Jewish Quarter to continue our exploration of the city’s layered past.
A Walk Through History: The Jewish Quarter and the Old Cemetery
Prague’s Josefov district is one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Europe, a haunting testament to its community’s resilience and tragedies. We visited several historic synagogues, each telling a different chapter of Prague’s Jewish history.
But the Old Jewish Cemetery truly stopped us in our tracks. Dating back to the 15th century, this small, uneven patch of land holds over 12,000 visible tombstones, but the number of burials is estimated to be closer to 100,000. Because Jewish law forbade moving old graves, new bodies were buried in layers, with tombstones placed atop one another over the centuries. The result? A sea of lopsided, moss-covered stones huddled together in quiet defiance of time.
Walking through the cemetery, snow falling silently between the crooked stones, it was impossible not to feel the weight of history pressing in.
Pilsner, River Views, and Fine Dining
After the emotional depth of Josefov, we decided to thaw out with a Pilsner in the Bar of the Executioner—because when in Prague, you balance solemn history with atmospheric watering holes. The bar’s dark, medieval vibes were a fitting contrast to the snowy brightness outside, and the beer? As crisp and cold as the air.
Later that day, we took a one-hour river cruise along the Vltava (Moldau), watching Prague’s snow-covered rooftops reflect in the water like a scene from an old painting. The city looked even more poetic from the river, its bridges and spires softened by the snowfall.
For dinner, we treated ourselves to two unforgettable meals:
- Portfolio: A sleek, modern take on Czech cuisine, where each plate looked like art and tasted even better.
- La Degustation: If dining were storytelling, this Michelin-starred spot would be epic. Every dish would be a chapter, every bite a plot twist.
We left both meals convinced that Prague is a feast for the eyes and the palate.
Belgium on Strike? Change of Plans!
As our trip wound to a close, reality knocked in—Belgium was on yet another general strike, which meant our flight home needed a last-minute change. Instead of returning to Brussels, we rerouted to Eindhoven on February 13th. It seemed Prague wasn’t ready to let us go so quickly. And honestly? We didn’t mind one bit.
Final Thoughts
Prague in winter is a dream wrapped in frost. The city hums with history, its beauty undiminished by the cold. Every turn revealed something magical, whether by train, bike, tram, or boat. And while a strike back home may have tried to complicate things, it only added another chapter to an already unforgettable journey.
Would we do it again? In a heartbeat. Maybe next time, we’ll even bring warmer gloves.
2016 - Koen Blanquart 
Koen Blanquart 